Wednesday, March 23, 2011

Shoe Review - Evolv Pontas

So,

This week I want to give a somewhat unbiased review of the Pontas.  That's nearly impossible being a member of the Rocky Mountain Team Evolv, so I've stolen pics, info, reviews, compliments, and slander from all over the web.  This way you get a good idea of how people really feel about the shoe.



First, the specs - straight from the Evolv website:

PROFILE:
Asymmetrical toe profile (KA-1 last)
SOLE:
4.2mm TRAX® XT-5 high friction rubber
RAND:
2.2mm TRAX® duro-rand
UPPER:
Non-stretch Synthratek synthetic upper
LINING:
Cotton fiber lining
MIDSOLE:
MX-S 1.5mm 3/4 length semi-stiff
SIZES:
5 to 13.5 US men
      FEATURES:
- Designed for focusing and delivering power to the toe
- Non-stretch material for consistent performance
- Extended toe rand for toe hooking



They do come in a lace version which I'll cover in a different post.  One cool thing about these shoes is that you can get them in any color you want.  Check out http://evolvesports.com/flash_app/index.htm





My Personal take on them:

  1. Love them for sport climbing.  
  2. Love them for sporty Trad routes
  3. Found out a couple weeks ago that they actually climb desert splitters quite well.  Better than I had expected for sure. I wish the synthetic material was a little more durable.  
My opinion on size is that you get them the same or slightly smaller than your street shoe.  I'm usually a 11.5-12 street shoe guy, and I wear these in 11.5.  They feel to me like a mid to high-volume foot works best, but the adjustment with the velcro eliminates most of that worry.  These shoes don't stretch, but they do break in a little.

I am certainly not the guy that climbs the steepest stuff. In fact, I generally shy away from caves, but I do enjoy techy dime edge routes with balancy moves.  The stiff midsole provides the right amount of sensitivity without giving up the ability to stand on credit card edges. It usually takes a day or so for the sole to break in to the sensitivity level I like.  Out of the box they can feel a little bricky.  They wear out fairly normally.  I don't expect any climbing shoe to last for more than 6 months of consistent hard climbing.  I haven't had the pleasure of sending a pair in for a resole, though I probably should. (You guys do know that Yosemite Bum and Evolv are in cahoots, right?) Overall, the Pontas is my favorite Evolv shoe. I'm on my 5th pair.  Apparently Chris really digs them too.  It's cool to know that these are the shoes worn on the FA of the hardest route climbed to date.

Here is an amazing shot of Chris Sharma climbing La Rambla
Chris Sharma climbing in the Evolv Pontas  (unknown photo credit)


Here are some more opinions from around the web:


Some dude on RC.com said: "I've owned this shoe for almost a year and it has performed great on sport technical faces and overhangs. Great for edging on small stuff. Breaking them in does not take very long. Shaped and sized almost exactly like anasazi velcros. I would not recommend them to climbers with a super wide foot or those used to size very small because the extra rubber on top will make big toes hurt like hell. Low volume feet get a much better fit from them.
I didn't give them 5 stars because in my opinion the rubber wears down faster than stealth, and THEY DO STINK, even if the rest of your shoes don't..
I wear US 9 on new mugens and anasazi velcros, also 9 for these ones"


Some dude on BC.com said: "Fits right, little stretch with the synthetic uppers, sticky rubber, good mix of stiffness and flexibility, I got these to replace my La Sportiva Katana's and have not been disappointed. Love these for techy trad and steep sport. My only regret is the SUPER sticky rubber seems to wear out a little faster than some other shoes."


Odd Foot on MP.com in response to "Worst Climbing Shoe Ever" post said:  "Evolv Pontas. I'm sure they're good shoes but they did not agree with my feet at all."  (I just want to point out that this was the only mention of the Pontas on that thread)

POST A LINK TO YOUR OWN PICS OF YOU CLIMBING IN THE PONTAS IN THE COMMENTS.

Get out and climb!!!!!!!


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